Lake Water Quality#

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Lakes are commonly classified as oligotrophic, mesotrophic, or eutrophic. Oligotrophic lakes are generally deep and clear with little aquatic plant growth. These lakes maintain sufficient dissolved oxygen in the cool, deep bottom waters during late summer to support cold water fish such as trout and whitefish. By contrast, eutrophic lakes are generally shallow, turbid, and support abundant aquatic plant growth. In deep eutrophic lakes, the cool bottom waters usually contain little or no dissolved oxygen. Therefore, these lakes can only support warm water fish such as bass and pike. Lakes that fall between these two extremes are called mesotrophic lakes.

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Under natural conditions, most lakes will ultimately evolve to a eutrophic state as they gradually fill with sediment and organic matter transported to the lake from the surrounding watershed. As the lake becomes shallower, the process accelerates. When aquatic plants become abundant, the lake slowly begins to fill in as sediment and decaying plant matter accumulate on the lake bottom. Eventually, terrestrial plants become established and the lake is transformed to a marshland. The aging process in lakes is called "eutrophication" and may take anywhere from a few hundred to several thousand years, generally depending on the size of the lake and its watershed. The natural lake aging process can be greatly accelerated if excessive amounts of sediment and nutrients (which stimulate aquatic plant growth) enter the lake from the surrounding watershed. Because these added inputs are usually associated with human activity, this accelerated lake aging process is often referred to as "cultural eutrophication." The problem of cultural eutrophication can be managed by identifying sources of sediment and nutrient loading (i.e., inputs) to the lake and developing strategies to halt or slow the inputs.

There are many ways to measure lake water quality, but there are a few important physical, chemical, and biological parameters that indicate the overall condition of a lake. These measurements include temperature, dissolved oxygen, total phosphorus, chlorophyll-a, and Secchi transparency. The latter three measures are used in classifying a lake.

Temperature

Temperature is important in determining the type of organisms that may live in a lake. For example, trout prefer temperatures below 68̊F.

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Temperature also determines how water mixes in a lake. As the ice cover breaks up on a lake in the spring, the water temperature becomes uniform from the surface to the bottom. This period is referred to as "spring turnover" because water mixes throughout the entire water column. As the surface waters warm, they are underlain by a colder, more dense strata of water. This process is called thermal stratification. Once thermal stratification occurs, there is little mixing of the warm surface waters with the cooler bottom waters. The transition layer that separates these layers is referred to as the "thermocline." The thermocline is characterized as the zone where temperature drops rapidly with depth. As fall approaches, the warm surface waters begin to cool and become more dense. Eventually, the surface temperature drops to a point that allows the lake to undergo complete mixing. This period is referred to as "fall turnover." As the season progresses and ice begins to form on the lake, the lake may stratify again. However, during winter stratification, the surface waters (at or near 32̊F) are underlain by slightly warmer water (about 39̊F). This is sometimes referred to as "inverse stratification" and occurs because water is most dense at a temperature of about 39̊F. As the lake ice melts in the spring, these stratification cycles are repeated. Shallow lakes do not stratify. Lakes that are 15 to 30 feet deep may stratify and destratify with storm events several times during the year.

Dissolved Oxygen

An important factor influencing lake water quality is the quantity of dissolved oxygen in the water column. The major inputs of dissolved oxygen to lakes are the atmosphere and photosynthetic activity by aquatic plants. An oxygen level of about 5 mg/L (milligrams per liter, or parts per million) is required to support warm water fish. In lakes deep enough to exhibit thermal stratification, oxygen levels are often reduced or depleted below the thermocline once the lake has stratified. This is because deep water is cut off from plant photosynthesis and the atmosphere, and oxygen is consumed by bacteria that use oxygen as they decompose organic matter (plant and animal remains) at the bottom of the lake. Bottom-water oxygen depletion is a common occurrence in eutrophic and some mesotrophic lakes. Thus, eutrophic and most mesotrophic lakes cannot support cold water fish because the cool, deep water (that the fish require to live) does not contain sufficient oxygen.


Phosphorus

The quantity of phosphorus present in the water column is especially important since phosphorus is the nutrient that most often controls aquatic plant growth and the rate at which a lake ages and becomes more eutrophic. In the presence of oxygen, lake sediments act as a phosphorus trap, retaining phosphorus and, thus, making it unavailable for aquatic plant growth. However, if bottom-water oxygen is depleted, phosphorus will be released from the sediments and may be available to promote aquatic plant growth. In some lakes, the release of phosphorus from the bottom sediments is the primary source of phosphorus loading (or input). By reducing the amount of phosphorus in a lake, it may be possible to control the amount of aquatic plant growth. In general, lakes with a phosphorus concentration greater than 20 μg/L (micrograms per liter, or parts per billion) are able to support abundant plant growth and are classified as nutrient-enriched or eutrophic.

Chlorophyll-a

Chlorophyll-a is a pigment that imparts the green color to plants and algae. A rough estimate of the quantity of algae present in lake water can be made by measuring the amount of chlorophyll-a in the water column. A chlorophyll-a concentration greater than 6 μg/L is considered characteristic of a eutrophic condition.

Secchi Transparency

A Secchi disk is often used to estimate water clarity. The measurement is made by fastening a round, black and white, 8-inch disk to a calibrated line (Figure 3). The disk is lowered over the deepest point of the lake until it is no longer visible, and the depth is noted. The disk is then raised until it reappears. The average between these two depths is the

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Secchi transparency. Generally, it has been found that aquatic plants can grow at a depth of approximately twice the Secchi transparency measurement. In eutrophic lakes, water clarity is often reduced by algae growth in the water column, and Secchi disk readings of 7.5 feet or less are common.

Lake Classification Criteria

Ordinarily, as phosphorus inputs to a lake increase, the amount of algae will also increase. Thus, the lake will exhibit increased chlorophyll-a levels and decreased transparency. A summary of lake classification criteria developed by the Michigan Department of Natural Resources is shown in Table 1.


TABLE 1

LAKE CLASSIFICATION CRITERIA

Lake                         Total Phosphorus             Chlorophyll-a                  Secchi

Classification            (μg/L)[1]                            (μg/L)                              Transparency (feet)


Oligotrophic                Less than 10                      Less than 2.2                   Greater than 15.0

Mesotrophic               10 to 20                             2.2 to 6.0                         7.5 to 15.0

Eutrophic                   Greater than 20                  Greater than 6.0                Less than 7.5

 



[1] μg/L = micrograms per liter = parts per billion.

4/30/2007 9:28:09 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00) #     | 

 

Lakeside Landscaping#

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In General

  • Rake and dispose of leaves away from the lake. Compost if possible. Do not burn leaves near shore. Nutrients concentrate in the ash and are easily washed into the lake.
  • Avoid using herbicides near the lake, many are toxic to aquatic life.

Fertilizing the Lawn

  • If you don’t use fertilizer, don’t start now. If you do...
  • Most lakeside lawns don’t need phosphorus. Don’t use fertilizer that contains phosphorus unless a soil test shows a need for it. Once in the lake, 1 pound of phosphorus can generate several hundred pounds of aquatic plants.
  • Fertilizers are labeled with a 3-number system that indicates the percentage of the bag that contains nitrogen (first number), phosphorus (second number) and potassium (third number). Example: a 50-pound bag of 20-0-10 fertilizer contains 20% nitrogen (or 10 pounds), 0% phosphorus, and 10% potassium (5 pounds).
  • Make sure the nitrogen is a slow- release type, such as sulfur-coated urea or IBDU.
  • Use no more than 8 pounds of nitrogen per ¼-acre of lawn (¼-acre is about 100 by 100 feet).
  • Don’t fertilize the lawn until 3 weeks after the lawn begins to turn green in spring. If needed, the lawn may be lightly fertilized again in fall (late September through November) to promote root growth.
  • When spreading fertilizer, don’t allow fertilizer to land directly in the water.

Irrigation

  • Lightly water after fertilizer is applied. Too much water will cause the fertilizer to leach right past the lawn and into the lake; the turf roots will never get a chance to use it.
  • Irrigation during the hot, dry period of late summer can prevent the grass from turning brown. At that time, it’s better to water for short periods (10 to 15 minutes) daily, rather than heavy watering once per week.
  • The best time to water is early afternoon, just prior to the hottest part of the day.

Mowing

  • Don’t cut the grass too short! Near lakes, a mowing height of 3 to 3½ inches or higher is recommended.
  • A general recommendation for mowing frequency is twice per week in spring, every two weeks in summer, and once per week in the fall.
  • Return grass clippings back to the lawn. You can reduce the nitrogen needs of your lawn significantly by doing so. If possible, use a mulching lawn mower to aid in this process.

Greenbelt

  • A greenbelt is a strip of land along the lakeshore that contains plants to trap pollutants that would otherwise wash into the lake.
  • A greenbelt should be at least 10 feet wide, but more than 30 feet wide is best.
  • Don’t fertilize the greenbelt.
  • For a natural look, don’t mow the greenbelt. Allow natural grasses and wildflowers to grow.
  • For a landscaped look, plant groundcovers, ferns, perennials, and shrubs.

Lakeside landscaping involves planting or preserving a zone of natural vegetation, a greenbelt, around the lake's edge. This vegetation acts as a buffer, trapping runoff and absorbing nutrients before they can enter the lake.

The lakefront should be landscaped to allow full recreational use of the lake and still provide water quality protection. Lawns alone do not make good greenbelts. Plant varieties should be selected that are attractive, easily maintained, and effective buffers.

To minimize the amount of leaves falling into the water, deciduous trees (i.e., trees that lose their leaves at the end of the growing season) should be planted as far from the water’s edge as practical. Ideally, deciduous trees should be set back from the water’s edge a distance equal to twice the mature height of the tree. Evergreens can be established closer to the lake shoreline. See list at left for some native greenbelt varieties.

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4/22/2007 9:35:17 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00) #     | 

 

Boating Safety#
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With the increase in the size and number of boats in recent years, boating safety is a major concern on many lakes.

Remember, state law requires that:

  • Maintain a distance of 100 feet from rafts, docks, and swimming areas, unless travelling at no-wake speed.
  • Whenever possible, boats and personal watercraft should travel in a counter-clockwise direction (i.e. keep the shoreline to your right).
  • Persons under 12 years old operating motorboats must be under the direct supervision of a person 16 years of age or older; and the boat must have no more than 35 horsepower.
  • Persons 12 through 15 years may operate motorboats if either condition below is met:
    - accompanied by at least 1 person 16 years or older, or
    - the person has a boating safety certificate.

A little courtesy goes a long way on the lake!

State law related to personal watercraft (jet skis) went into effect in 1999. The law includes the following:

  • Personal watercraft may only be operated from 8 a.m. until 1 hour before sunset.
  • Personal watercraft should not cross within 150 feet behind another vessel.
  • Personal watercraft may not be operated by anyone under the age of 14.
  • A person who was born after December 31, 1978 shall not operate a personal watercraft unless he or she first obtains a boating safety certificate.
  • An individual who is required to complete a boating safety course must have in his or her immediate possession a boating safety certificate.

4/19/2007 10:19:13 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00) #     | 

 

10 Ways to Lake Protection#
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1. Don't use lawn fertilizer that contains phosphorus.

2. Use the minimum amount of fertilizer recommended on the label—more is not necessarily better!

3. Water the lawn sparingly to avoid washing nutrients and sediments into the lake.

4. Don't feed ducks and geese near the lake. Waterfowl droppings are high in nutrients and may cause swimmer's itch.

5. Don't burn leaves and grass clippings near the shoreline. Nutrients concentrate in the ash and can easily wash into the lake.

6. Do not mow to the water's edge. Instead, allow a strip of natural vegetation (i.e., a greenbelt) to become established along your waterfront. A greenbelt will trap pollutants, provide wildlife habitat, and discourage nuisance geese from frequenting your property.

7. Infiltrate drainage from your downspouts rather than letting it flow overland to the lake (i.e., construct a rain garden).

8. Don't dump anything in area wetlands. Wetlands are nature's natural purifiers.

9. If you have a septic system, have your septic tank pumped every 2 to 3 years.

10. Don't be complacent—our collective actions will make or break the lake!

4/13/2007 10:06:04 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00) #     | 

 

Septic System Maintenance#

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If a septic system is not properly designed and maintained, bacteria and nutrients (such as nitrogen and phosphorus) can readily pass through the soil to the water table and ultimately to the lake or a nearby well. In some instances, septic contaminants can move several hundred feet. Therefore, proper maintenance of lakeside septic systems is critical to water quality protection. This section describes how septic systems function and may be properly maintained.

Parts of a Septic System

A septic system consists of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield. Wastewater flows from the house to the septic tank. In the septic tank, most of the solids settle to the bottom and form a sludge layer that is partially decomposed by bacteria. Floating solids form a scum layer on the water surface. Baffles may be positioned in the septic tank to help prevent solids from flowing into and clogging the drainfield. Liquids from the septic tank flow into the drainfield where the wastewater is treated by filtration and microorganisms in the soil. Most commonly, the drainfield consists of a series of perforated pipes that allow water from the septic tank to slowly drain to the surrounding soils.

The following practices will help to reduce septic contamination problems and will prolong the life and efficiency of your septic system.

Septic System Maintenance Practices

Maintaining the Septic Tank

  • Inspect the septic tank scum and sludge depth once a year. If the scum depth is within 1 inch of the outlet baffle, the tank requires cleaning. If the sludge depth is within 12 inches of the outlet baffle or within 18 inches of the outlet fitting, the tank requires cleaning.
  • Pump the tank at regular intervals (usually every 2 to 3 years).
  • To avoid overburdening your septic system with solids, do not use a kitchen garbage disposal unit.
  • Do not use chemical agents to clean your system except on the advice of the county health department.
  • Do not put harmful materials, such as fats, solvents, oils, paints, coffee grounds, paper towels, disposable diapers, cigarettes, sanitary napkins, or tampons, into your system.
  • If your system is equipped with a distribution box between the septic tank and the drainfield, at 1-year intervals, allow one side of your system to "rest."
  • If your system is equipped with a dosing chamber, be sure the submersible pump is operating and properly maintained for uniform discharge of effluent into the drainfield, followed by drainage between doses.

Maintaining the Drainfield

  • Know the location of your drainfield.
  • Keep automobiles and all heavy vehicles off the drainfield.
  • Do not allow puddles of storm- water to form over the drainfield.
  • Do not fertilize the soil above the drainfield.
  • Do not stockpile snow or soil on the drainfield.
  • Do not allow downspouts to drain onto or into your drainfield.
  • Dense grass cover and other shallow-rooted plants are beneficial over a drainfield.
  • Avoid planting deep-rooted trees and shrubs over the drainfield. Although they promote moisture removal from the drainfield, their roots may clog the drain tiles.

Water Conservation Measures
The less water you use, the better your septic system will function.

  • Toilets are among the most water-consumptive appliances in a house. By installing a low-flush toilet, with a 1 gallon-per-flush capacity, instead of the 3.5 to 5-gallon toilets, you may reduce toilet water use by as much as-30 percent.
  • Use low-flow, water-saving shower heads. This plumbing fixture can reduce shower water use by up to 50 percent but increases water velocity so the shower feels the same.
  • Faucet aerators can decrease faucet water use by as much as 50 percent.
  • Other simple things that can be done in the home include repairing leaky faucets and toilets; and using dish and clothes washers only with a full load.
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4/11/2007 9:47:30 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00) #     | 

 

Eurasion Millfoil#

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Eurasian milfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum) is a nuisance aquatic plant that has infested many Michigan lakes. As its name implies, Eurasian milfoil is not native to Michigan. It was first introduced into the United States from Europe and Asia in the 1940's. Eurasian milfoil can spread very rapidly by a process called vegetative propagation in which small pieces of the plant break off, take root and grow. Eurasian milfoil is especially problematic in that it often becomes established early in the growing season and can grow at greater depths than most plants. Eurasian milfoil tends to form a thick canopy at the lake surface that can degrade fish habitat and seriously hinder recreational activity. Because of its ability to spread by fragmentation, mechanical harvesting (in which plants are cut and removed from the lake) is not an effective method of controlling Eurasian milfoil. In fact, harvesting can actually promote the spread of the plant. Eurasian milfoil can be controlled with herbicides (some of which are selective for milfoil) and, in some lakes, the biological control of Eurasian milfoil is being attempted.

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4/6/2007 10:03:50 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00) #     | 

 

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About The Authors
Tony Groves, Pam Tyning, and Paul Hausler have over 60 years of combined experience in the field of water resource management at Progressive AE. The information presented on this site is pertinent to the protection and management of Michigan's abundant water resources. This site will be updated periodically to display new information and guidance.
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